ABITOMENTALE is a Haute Couture and Fashion Design Study Center founded to convey the tailoring methodology and skills that have developed over time the traditional Italian sartorial identity .

 

A project which is summarized in two words: ABITO (DRESS) - for its common root with the latin word HABITUS, with HABITAT and HABIT, the habit expertise of the manual - and MENTALE (MENTAL) - for the daily dialogue between concrete practices and thinking that the sartorial method incorporates.

 

The handicraft product is the result of a harmony between manual execution and mental conception, between intuition and realization.

 

ABITOMENTALE, Haute Couture and Fashion Design Study Center, instructs hands to plan and think, rediscovering the "know-how with art" back to the fashion system's ability to produce added value.

 

"Brainless hands can do nothing" (Vladimir Mayakovsky)

 

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Fashion, and in particular the production of handmade quality, is currently experiencing a phase of progressive transformation.

 

The creative process has gradually moved away from its original relationship with materials and volumes typical of the sartorial design.

 

The crisis of fashion today is not of ideas but of the garrison of the different phases of the project.

 

Manufactures of excellence, which continue to operate in the difficult balance between craft and industry at the base of the fascinating reality Italian manufacturing, put  design thinking, action and technique at the center of fashion.

 

ABITOMENTALE promotes training courses to qualify the various professionals involved in the design style (designers, stylists, coordinators of collection) by providing them with a knowledge of traditional Italian tailoring method.

 

Sartorial method, first as skills acquired and exercised then as knowledge internalized, becomes indispensable today to rethink the design style, understand the dynamics of a production cycle, monitoring their phases and the quality of the result.

DESIGN

 

SARTORIAL METHOD

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Sartorial method is the Noah's Ark of the Made in Italy.

 

Traditional method for tailoring mean designing a garment made by craftsmen in all its phases: model mannequin, paper pattern, cutting, sewing, decoration, board.

 

This know-how is nowadays rare, often considered too old: but inside this knowledge is all Made in Italy.

 

Acquiring a knowledge of the sartorial method, including its wealth, its specific timing of manual gestures, is today  the only way not to oppose the industrialization of the product, but to stem the effects that have gradually depleted quality.

 

The tailoring method  is a knowledge that involves a slow learning. Who lives tailoring lives a school where, day after day, a craft is perfected.

 

In the case of ABITOMENTALE school enters tailoring to teach a method.

 

The school conceives the know "how it all twisted together, or woven, like fabric, and each piece of knowledge is meaningful or useful only by virtue of the other pieces. A knowledge that however is not measured by the meter because if the fabric is flat, knowledge instead has three dimensions ... maybe four dimensions " (Gregory Bateson).

ABITOMENTALE is characterized by the recovery and the teaching of the ancient technique of mannequin design, typical of the traditional high fashion sartorial method.

 

The Moulage represents the moment, complementary to the phase of the drawing, in which the creativity is measured with the technique, with the experience and the contact with the materials and is essential phase in the design of fashion that is considered complementary to the design phase.

 

The drapping is an experience in which technical skills and instincts guide the hands of the prime minister. Only by observing the execution of this ancient technique but still essential, they can learn the secrets and peculiarities for transfer in a digital design.

 

MOULAGE & DRAPPING

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Execution is a fundamental part of the design.

 

The school is a tailor who, as a Renaissance workshop,  focuses on training the teaching method of tailoring, integrating it with skills and theoretical knowledge.

 

Theory and Parthian have the same value. In fashion insight, design and execution are the three expressions of creativity.

 

To compete with the innovation and the ability to turn insight into action, serving skills, ability to turn these skills in productive organization and critical vision.

 

ABITOMENTALE intends transmit these skills through teaching practical method of tailoring, as technical "base" necessary to acquire and develop knowledge and high professionalism innovative, consistent with the needs of businesses and new benchmark for manufacturing quality.

 

ABITOMENTALE is the perfect habitat for foster creativity and direct it to a fashion designing shared internationally.

Hand made means "conceived and designed" with creativity and expert skills and built in perfect harmony with  hands and with the tools that research provides us.

 

Hand made, in tailoring, means that every gesture is not separated from the next and the previous as well as a good argument can not be separated from premises to consistent conclusions.

 

ABITOMENTALE, through the integration of the different dimensions of knowledge - practical, theoretical and vocational - want to rediscover and transmit "the virtue of knowing how to do, based on the belief that all skills, even the most abstract, born of physical practices and that the 'technical intelligence is developed through the power of the imagination" (Richard Sennett).

 

Hands give life to an outfit. The product communicates the "how it was done" and the care of those who carried it out.

 

The dress and its history enter into a relationship with the customer and define the level of satisfaction and durability.

ABITOMENTALE, Haute Couture and Fashion Design Study Center, for its practical and theoretical nature is connected and integrates with the atelier Manifatture di Fiammetta Pancaldi in Bologna.

 

The school is closely linked to the tailor shop.

 

Spaces dedicated to the school are equipped to maintain a daily relationship between the theory and practice of teaching.

 

In tailoring you create while doing. The tailor shop is a think tank and knowledge tool in which stylistic intuition, creative process and realization live together.

 

The new fashion designer is a tailor of ideas.

 

 

EXECUTION

HAND MADE

SARTORIA

SCHOOL AND COURSES

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ABITOMENTALE offers training courses, seminars and research around the design world in high traditional tailoring.

 

In 2015 ABITOMENTALE proposed, in collaboration with Ecipar Bologna, professional training courses promoted by the Region of Emilia Romagna.

 

The course for Fashion Designer (2014-3249/RER Progettista di moda: competenze artigianali e innovazione tecnologica) at the headquarters of ABITOMENTALE at Manifatture di Fiammetta Pancaldi in Via Filanda 22, Bologna form March to October 2015 combining theoretical and practical learning of the traditional Italian tailoring method.

 

The course for Fashion Coordinator (PA. 2015-4108 / RER / 3) at the headquarters of ABITOMENTALE at Manifatture di Fiammetta Pancaldi in Via Filanda 22, Bologna form Novembre 2015 to April 2016 developing the collection coordinator skills in the traditional Italian tailoring scene.

 

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MANIFATTURE DI FIAMMETTA PANCALDI SRL

Via della Filanda 22 - 40133 Bologna

tel/fax 0039 051 9924534

ambo@abitomentale.it

 

Idea: Fiammetta Pancaldi, Francesca Rossi, Alberto Morselli

Photo: Margherita Cecchini, Beatrice Marchi

Video: Francesca Biral

 

© 2016 ABITOMENTALE